For most of us, our lives are dominated by two essential spaces: home and the workplace. However, between the familiarity of our offices and homes there exists a third-space; a space where we come together in the public sphere; a space where we hang out; a space that is neither our home or at work.
In Amman, many of these spaces are either public places such as parks or cafes, or have evolved naturally over time such as the various streets of the capital.
Photographer and Blogger, Laith Majali, took a series of extraordinary pictures depicting some of Amman’s most common “third spaces” (seen above). From the football stadium and the steps of the Roman amphitheater, to bus stops, playgrounds, turkish baths, the Abdali market and the vegetable souk of the balad. Laith’s photos are a brief exploration of the places we inhibit in Amman.
So, where are your third spaces?
Where do you hang out when you’re not at home or work?
Where do you see people coming together, be it in small or large groups?
What strange nooks have you seen evolve naturally by the mere will of the people wanting to engage in those specific spaces?
Tell us about your third spaces!
when people come together for a happy occassion, in the courtyard for example, they create an atmosphere of optimism that usually drifts to the next door houses and usually causes the spirits to be happy too. I guess that this is true for other places.
when people come together for a happy occassion, in the courtyard for example, they create an atmosphere of optimism that usually drifts to the next door houses and usually causes the spirits to be happy too. I guess that this is true for other places.
my favorite spaces are basically anywhere people can get together and hang out. in jebel amman it is usually in front of a store or on the staircases. a new ice cream shop opened up on khirfan street, and the whole street hangs out in front of the place. wonderful, simple, and wonderfully satisfying.
my favorite spaces are basically anywhere people can get together and hang out. in jebel amman it is usually in front of a store or on the staircases. a new ice cream shop opened up on khirfan street, and the whole street hangs out in front of the place. wonderful, simple, and wonderfully satisfying.
When I feel people people are proud of their Ammani identity, gathering in that one space where one feels free….there is a beautiful energy that binds people in Jabal Amman, Rainbow St.
When I feel people people are proud of their Ammani identity, gathering in that one space where one feels free….there is a beautiful energy that binds people in Jabal Amman, Rainbow St.
I have to say Jebal Amman and Rainbow St. are some of my favorite places in Amman. I love walking around there, enjoying the new atmosphere that’s been “bubbling” on that side of town for while now… But let’s not forget the other side (not farther east!): West Amman – where I live, where my friends live, where the “bubbling” atmosphere used to be. RACJ, “Mac” Abdallah Gosheh, Kalha El Rabieh, Da’asan… When I remember my Ammani childhood, I remember these places, and they – along with Jebal Amman – are all to be celebrated. I love Amman and never want to be anywhere else. It’s home and all of you are family.
I have to say Jebal Amman and Rainbow St. are some of my favorite places in Amman. I love walking around there, enjoying the new atmosphere that’s been “bubbling” on that side of town for while now… But let’s not forget the other side (not farther east!): West Amman – where I live, where my friends live, where the “bubbling” atmosphere used to be. RACJ, “Mac” Abdallah Gosheh, Kalha El Rabieh, Da’asan… When I remember my Ammani childhood, I remember these places, and they – along with Jebal Amman – are all to be celebrated. I love Amman and never want to be anywhere else. It’s home and all of you are family.
Souk Jara during the summer, and Jabal Amman in general. The atmosphere is just wonderful. Cups and Kilos too, for study groups and to hang out when we’re broke!
Souk Jara during the summer, and Jabal Amman in general. The atmosphere is just wonderful. Cups and Kilos too, for study groups and to hang out when we’re broke!
The third space is found in the idea of Amman, that exists in a cutely-shaped bubble between my thoughts. The idea of an eclectic cluster of warm people, the idea of good living and the idea of a clean slate for exciting cultural happenings, collaborations and initiatives. I’m sure that visiting Ammman will fill a cute little space in my heart.
The third space is found in the idea of Amman, that exists in a cutely-shaped bubble between my thoughts. The idea of an eclectic cluster of warm people, the idea of good living and the idea of a clean slate for exciting cultural happenings, collaborations and initiatives. I’m sure that visiting Ammman will fill a cute little space in my heart.
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Jabal Al Weibdeh!
When i was young i used to go to a place, we used to call Al Taleh… it is in the beginning of Jabal weibedeh… and if you go on, you will eventually hit Makan and Dar al Anda…. At the moment, someone is building some ugly yellow building there…. I am not suer why in Amman we are in love of replacing anything green with stone and cement…
Jabal Al Weibdeh!
When i was young i used to go to a place, we used to call Al Taleh… it is in the beginning of Jabal weibedeh… and if you go on, you will eventually hit Makan and Dar al Anda…. At the moment, someone is building some ugly yellow building there…. I am not suer why in Amman we are in love of replacing anything green with stone and cement…
من أفضل فراغاتي الثالثة هو الألحان الفيروزية اللتي تدور في رأسي وانا أمشي في عمّان. “بعدك على بالي يا قمر الحلوين” مثلاَ وأنا أمشي في الساعة الذهبية في شوارع اللويبدة. أو “تعا ولا تيجي وإكزوب عليي” بعد أن إشتريت الآيس كريم من بقالة سامي بجانب البوكس آت كافيه في جبل عمّان متجهاً إلى سوق جارا يوم الجمعة. أو “سنرجع يوما إلى حيّنا ونغرق في دافئات المنى” عندما أتذكر شوارع القدس ورام الله اللتي تشبه أحضان جبل عمّان أيضاً. أو ” نطرونا كتير ع موقف دارينا” وأنا أقود سيارتي وسط أشجار ضاحية الرشيد. أو “في قهوة ع المفرق” وأنا أكتب هنا في هذه اللحظة
🙂
من أفضل فراغاتي الثالثة هو الألحان الفيروزية اللتي تدور في رأسي وانا أمشي في عمّان. “بعدك على بالي يا قمر الحلوين” مثلاَ وأنا أمشي في الساعة الذهبية في شوارع اللويبدة. أو “تعا ولا تيجي وإكزوب عليي” بعد أن إشتريت الآيس كريم من بقالة سامي بجانب البوكس آت كافيه في جبل عمّان متجهاً إلى سوق جارا يوم الجمعة. أو “سنرجع يوما إلى حيّنا ونغرق في دافئات المنى” عندما أتذكر شوارع القدس ورام الله اللتي تشبه أحضان جبل عمّان أيضاً. أو ” نطرونا كتير ع موقف دارينا” وأنا أقود سيارتي وسط أشجار ضاحية الرشيد. أو “في قهوة ع المفرق” وأنا أكتب هنا في هذه اللحظة
🙂
From Ammani childhood memories, the third space is “al 7ara”. Given lack of designated spaces to play, awlad el 7ara and I used to get two large stones to mark a goal and then it would be football on the tarmac. Ba3dein, tummayeh (hide n seek) or gloul (playing marbles) on the odd vacant unbuilt land sharing that space with cars using it as parking. Break time from play would be during meals and the afternoon cartoon times; latter used to be c. 3pm if memory serves on Jordan’s Channel 1. Captain Majed, Al Sanafer, Al Shanakel, Lady Bell (I think) and a few other shows. On a side note, coming to think of it, these cartoons were very helpful in boosting our fus7a (classical Arabic)! The tech savvy of us used to have a zero-bit Atari playing video games composed of a few dots. When PacMan arrived, we considered that a technological breakthrough. The third space of these latter indoor activities would be at cousins’ and friends’ homes or our homes with cousins or friends over. Getting us excited to accompany our parents on their visits to family and friends used to be based on our knowledge of their children having the latest Atari game or the newest BMX bicycle. A black or red BMX was considered hot. Who else had / has a multitude of third spaces?
From Ammani childhood memories, the third space is “al 7ara”. Given lack of designated spaces to play, awlad el 7ara and I used to get two large stones to mark a goal and then it would be football on the tarmac. Ba3dein, tummayeh (hide n seek) or gloul (playing marbles) on the odd vacant unbuilt land sharing that space with cars using it as parking. Break time from play would be during meals and the afternoon cartoon times; latter used to be c. 3pm if memory serves on Jordan’s Channel 1. Captain Majed, Al Sanafer, Al Shanakel, Lady Bell (I think) and a few other shows. On a side note, coming to think of it, these cartoons were very helpful in boosting our fus7a (classical Arabic)! The tech savvy of us used to have a zero-bit Atari playing video games composed of a few dots. When PacMan arrived, we considered that a technological breakthrough. The third space of these latter indoor activities would be at cousins’ and friends’ homes or our homes with cousins or friends over. Getting us excited to accompany our parents on their visits to family and friends used to be based on our knowledge of their children having the latest Atari game or the newest BMX bicycle. A black or red BMX was considered hot. Who else had / has a multitude of third spaces?
Mariam, i shared a golden sunset with my friend rami on al taleh.
Me and mohammed left a little note there for the construction workers not to carry on their work.
we like parks, and a certain forest, sidewalks…
Mariam, i shared a golden sunset with my friend rami on al taleh.
Me and mohammed left a little note there for the construction workers not to carry on their work.
we like parks, and a certain forest, sidewalks…
If I wanted to get away from this busy world we are living. then, That place is Jarash.. I would set on top of a high mountain and enjoy the breeze, as if I am admiring a beautiful portrait. That would clear my mind and would give me a brighter vision for the feature.
If I wanted to get away from this busy world we are living. then, That place is Jarash.. I would set on top of a high mountain and enjoy the breeze, as if I am admiring a beautiful portrait. That would clear my mind and would give me a brighter vision for the feature.
Al Balad Theater, Darat al Funnon, Makan and sa7afa street..where I can meet all my frinds togather in one space .. actually this is my third place..
Al Balad Theater, Darat al Funnon, Makan and sa7afa street..where I can meet all my frinds togather in one space .. actually this is my third place..
I also remember us dancing together as family in wide spaces in our homes, or at the basement or just outside the house… weddings used to be in homes. Sherade and acting games… Monopoly and other games…. I miss the simplicity and beauty of those times… My mum repeating the poem ‘ ya 7ilwati d7aki kullu al hawa laki’
I also remember us dancing together as family in wide spaces in our homes, or at the basement or just outside the house… weddings used to be in homes. Sherade and acting games… Monopoly and other games…. I miss the simplicity and beauty of those times… My mum repeating the poem ‘ ya 7ilwati d7aki kullu al hawa laki’
my favorite third space in Amman has always been the staircases where people hang out. there’s not too many of those in west amman though, except for the one they just built under the abdoun bridge that no one’s gonna use!
the amaneh is on a campaign to destroy the city’s traditional third spaces and they’ve been doing it for a while now. instead, they’re supporting “new” and “western” and more “civil” spaces.
it used to be that kids could play football in their own street…now all these streets are being divided with islands, even if they don’t need them. where are these kids gonna play? in the very few parks, all of which close early and have no space for football?
then some jacka$$ came up with the idea of having a summer festival on amman’s staircases as a way to “honor” the city’s tradition. what it will end up doing is destroying that tradition that has evolved naturally, and turn it in to something purely commercial.
the government, as progressive as it wants to make itself look, needs to step back and let the people evolve naturally in to their third spaces, instead of trying to control them!
my favorite third space in Amman has always been the staircases where people hang out. there’s not too many of those in west amman though, except for the one they just built under the abdoun bridge that no one’s gonna use!
the amaneh is on a campaign to destroy the city’s traditional third spaces and they’ve been doing it for a while now. instead, they’re supporting “new” and “western” and more “civil” spaces.
it used to be that kids could play football in their own street…now all these streets are being divided with islands, even if they don’t need them. where are these kids gonna play? in the very few parks, all of which close early and have no space for football?
then some jacka$$ came up with the idea of having a summer festival on amman’s staircases as a way to “honor” the city’s tradition. what it will end up doing is destroying that tradition that has evolved naturally, and turn it in to something purely commercial.
the government, as progressive as it wants to make itself look, needs to step back and let the people evolve naturally in to their third spaces, instead of trying to control them!
Sereen, that was you?!!!
I am kidding… the Taleh is brilliant because you sit there and look at Jabal Amman across…a very silent scene, yet it is very vivid if you think that every light spot has a story behind it…a family with several kids and grandparents and a bunch of aunts and uncles…. jealousy, competition, issues, trars, drama, secret love stories,stolen kisses, abuse, love, hatred, tenderness… oh my…
I used to sit there and ask myself the silliest questions… how many people are having dinner now? how many people are having a conversation? how many kids are crying? how many phones are ringing? how many people are watching the muslasal… the possibilities are endless.
Sereen, that was you?!!!
I am kidding… the Taleh is brilliant because you sit there and look at Jabal Amman across…a very silent scene, yet it is very vivid if you think that every light spot has a story behind it…a family with several kids and grandparents and a bunch of aunts and uncles…. jealousy, competition, issues, trars, drama, secret love stories,stolen kisses, abuse, love, hatred, tenderness… oh my…
I used to sit there and ask myself the silliest questions… how many people are having dinner now? how many people are having a conversation? how many kids are crying? how many phones are ringing? how many people are watching the muslasal… the possibilities are endless.
Depending on my state of mind, I find myself isolated in an underground cafe like The Basement, first circle or contemplating life at the Bakehouse. Personally, I try to experience as many places around amman as possible and along the way, memories are created and triggered in subsequent visits to each place.
Some of my “mashaweer” to unfamiliar places are more like strange dreams. I’ve been to Fienzo a couple of times, totally unplanned outings with the sole purpose of making fun of my world. I recall being there, surrounded by Iraqi people and losing myself in the rediculous atmosphere created by an unknown arab performer of well known arabic hits. I just find it very funny that it’s me who’s sitting there…
Depending on my state of mind, I find myself isolated in an underground cafe like The Basement, first circle or contemplating life at the Bakehouse. Personally, I try to experience as many places around amman as possible and along the way, memories are created and triggered in subsequent visits to each place.
Some of my “mashaweer” to unfamiliar places are more like strange dreams. I’ve been to Fienzo a couple of times, totally unplanned outings with the sole purpose of making fun of my world. I recall being there, surrounded by Iraqi people and losing myself in the rediculous atmosphere created by an unknown arab performer of well known arabic hits. I just find it very funny that it’s me who’s sitting there…
One of my favorite places is the staircase leading to Wild Jordan. A beautiful view of Amman from which I can spot the gigantic flag right next to my old house in Jabal Al-Nuzha. I just love the lights at night.
One of my favorite places is the staircase leading to Wild Jordan. A beautiful view of Amman from which I can spot the gigantic flag right next to my old house in Jabal Al-Nuzha. I just love the lights at night.
There are places in amman that make me quite happy , these are usually centred around shops ofcourse :)…and then there are places that make me feel peaceful, dreamy, and proud…… king hussein park, which i love, even though it’s not perfect, because it provides a safe haven for so many people who need it , i also appreciate the design.
Also, the downtown area (Al balad) at night, when all the shops are closed. I actually prefer it to modern day jabal amman because it is what it is, it doesn’t try to be cool or fancy …it’s quite raw!
There are places in amman that make me quite happy , these are usually centred around shops ofcourse :)…and then there are places that make me feel peaceful, dreamy, and proud…… king hussein park, which i love, even though it’s not perfect, because it provides a safe haven for so many people who need it , i also appreciate the design.
Also, the downtown area (Al balad) at night, when all the shops are closed. I actually prefer it to modern day jabal amman because it is what it is, it doesn’t try to be cool or fancy …it’s quite raw!
The streets of Amman are my third space, from Hashmi Shemali to Dabooq. In my car, usually filled with kids.
Sharing first place at the stop light between a crusty old Toyota and a Cadillac Escalade; getting the hard sell from Abu Yusef for something I don’t need or asking the little boy who sells papers how his studies are.
Fellow drivers are either adversaries or allies as we enforce differing world views through our driving habits. We share a smile and wave when we mutually stop to let an old tattooed teta cross, share a scowl and flip of the wrist with the black BMW businessman who doesn’t have time.
We watch buildings go up as we drive by in our third space, accident victims/perps yell it out, colorful gypsy girls sashaying, shabaab on cellphones, taxi-waiting Filippinas with their mani-pedi sets in an Abu Shakra bag.
The ‘stay-at-home-mom-is-an-oxymoron’ kind of third space. With uplifting music blasting and breezes through the sunroof.
The streets of Amman are my third space, from Hashmi Shemali to Dabooq. In my car, usually filled with kids.
Sharing first place at the stop light between a crusty old Toyota and a Cadillac Escalade; getting the hard sell from Abu Yusef for something I don’t need or asking the little boy who sells papers how his studies are.
Fellow drivers are either adversaries or allies as we enforce differing world views through our driving habits. We share a smile and wave when we mutually stop to let an old tattooed teta cross, share a scowl and flip of the wrist with the black BMW businessman who doesn’t have time.
We watch buildings go up as we drive by in our third space, accident victims/perps yell it out, colorful gypsy girls sashaying, shabaab on cellphones, taxi-waiting Filippinas with their mani-pedi sets in an Abu Shakra bag.
The ‘stay-at-home-mom-is-an-oxymoron’ kind of third space. With uplifting music blasting and breezes through the sunroof.
Hi, how is everybody
Are you interested to change your way in having something that could probably change your way of living O.K.
First of all as you know your life coordinates are location , time and space those are zones so you are living within zones but the main zone that is the master controller ,the mind zone which is not only a third space but a fourth ,fifth … infinity .
So if you call it third space let it be your mind ,whether you are at work or any place always use your third space ” use your mind ” live within your mind space always because this is a real gift from its creater .
Thanks and bye .
Hi, how is everybody
Are you interested to change your way in having something that could probably change your way of living O.K.
First of all as you know your life coordinates are location , time and space those are zones so you are living within zones but the main zone that is the master controller ,the mind zone which is not only a third space but a fourth ,fifth … infinity .
So if you call it third space let it be your mind ,whether you are at work or any place always use your third space ” use your mind ” live within your mind space always because this is a real gift from its creater .
Thanks and bye .
Lwebdeh Lwebdeh Lwebdeh.. ohhhh the memories!!
and Rainbow st…. these two places are heaven to me !!
Lwebdeh Lwebdeh Lwebdeh.. ohhhh the memories!!
and Rainbow st…. these two places are heaven to me !!
I always go to get my peace of mind by sitting on one low wall in al Wiebdeh. This wall connects two homes together and over views Albalad. My friend and I used to get supplies of falafel and diet sevens to make sure we sit there for the longest time.
We would watch a kid and his sister fight in the 7arra all the time as if we are watching cartoons as they were soo funny. One time layla, the sister, locked Alaa, the boy, outside and wouldnt let him in, he kept crying and cursing the hell out of her, itwas helarious at first, then annoying so we had to knock on the door and ask her to let him in. Layla begged us not to tell her mom.
I always go to get my peace of mind by sitting on one low wall in al Wiebdeh. This wall connects two homes together and over views Albalad. My friend and I used to get supplies of falafel and diet sevens to make sure we sit there for the longest time.
We would watch a kid and his sister fight in the 7arra all the time as if we are watching cartoons as they were soo funny. One time layla, the sister, locked Alaa, the boy, outside and wouldnt let him in, he kept crying and cursing the hell out of her, itwas helarious at first, then annoying so we had to knock on the door and ask her to let him in. Layla begged us not to tell her mom.
Looking at Laith’s brilliant pictures above, I have to say that one of the most mystical third spaces in Amman are the Turkish Baths. Before there were gyms or resorts, I think they were the traditional hideaway for males in Amman. To me, they represent a third space that is clandestine and mysteriously bringing together men in a public place that is away from the public eye. It may be the most lasting impression left by the Turks.
Looking at Laith’s brilliant pictures above, I have to say that one of the most mystical third spaces in Amman are the Turkish Baths. Before there were gyms or resorts, I think they were the traditional hideaway for males in Amman. To me, they represent a third space that is clandestine and mysteriously bringing together men in a public place that is away from the public eye. It may be the most lasting impression left by the Turks.
Shari3 Thqafeh, I truly do not know where to start. It may be more of a second home than a third space for me, this statement being based on the comfort I find in being there. Trampling upon Shari3 Thqafeh 4 years ago as a new-to-Jordan skateboarder, I had trouble fitting into the tight knit group of skateboarders there. Soon enough though, I came to realize that this street isn’t just a street or even a domain for those practicing their underground interests (skateboarding, graffiti, rollerblading, breakdancing, MCing, etc), but it is a third space of neutrality and freedom of practice for those who are often seen there. Five years later I attribute most of my adolescent growth to what I had learned and experienced in Shari3 Thqafeh.
Shari3 Thqafeh, I truly do not know where to start. It may be more of a second home than a third space for me, this statement being based on the comfort I find in being there. Trampling upon Shari3 Thqafeh 4 years ago as a new-to-Jordan skateboarder, I had trouble fitting into the tight knit group of skateboarders there. Soon enough though, I came to realize that this street isn’t just a street or even a domain for those practicing their underground interests (skateboarding, graffiti, rollerblading, breakdancing, MCing, etc), but it is a third space of neutrality and freedom of practice for those who are often seen there. Five years later I attribute most of my adolescent growth to what I had learned and experienced in Shari3 Thqafeh.
my favourite space is where i can look from above and observe Amman moving from medday to its sunset… jabal al qal3a, where Amman sounds as good as it looks from up there.:)
my favourite space is where i can look from above and observe Amman moving from medday to its sunset… jabal al qal3a, where Amman sounds as good as it looks from up there.:)
The internets.
The internets.
7adikat el-tuyur! we used to live right next to it, and me and my neighbours managed to strike a deal with the guard – he would let us in every morning (during summer) for free if we left before 2 pm (when it starts to get busy). so when it was really really empty in the morning, we would ride our bikes around, skate, or play tumayeh. and then, around 12/1, we used to hide in the bushes and watch as couples ‘imdayteen’ used to share sandwitches, glances and hand-holding… and sometimes even sneak a kiss.
at the time we used to think it was really funny. now i realise 7adikat el-tuyur wasn’t just a place for me to grow, as a child, it was also a salvage to those who thrived to feel love but couldn’t express it outside the confines of the garden’s walls.
that’s why it gets my vote as my ammani 3rd space.
(garden has now been renamed 7adikat el-Ameer Hashem liltuyur).
7adikat el-tuyur! we used to live right next to it, and me and my neighbours managed to strike a deal with the guard – he would let us in every morning (during summer) for free if we left before 2 pm (when it starts to get busy). so when it was really really empty in the morning, we would ride our bikes around, skate, or play tumayeh. and then, around 12/1, we used to hide in the bushes and watch as couples ‘imdayteen’ used to share sandwitches, glances and hand-holding… and sometimes even sneak a kiss.
at the time we used to think it was really funny. now i realise 7adikat el-tuyur wasn’t just a place for me to grow, as a child, it was also a salvage to those who thrived to feel love but couldn’t express it outside the confines of the garden’s walls.
that’s why it gets my vote as my ammani 3rd space.
(garden has now been renamed 7adikat el-Ameer Hashem liltuyur).
1st circle…rainbow street I just love it especially on fridays:)
1st circle…rainbow street I just love it especially on fridays:)
Certainly amman’s stairways…Adraj amman… I have a special bond with Jabal Alqal3a where my grandma lives, and another bond with Jabal Amman where i grow as a child and then as a teenager in CMS…. and Jabal alwebdeh where I discovered another layer in me related to art… in each of those places… there are plenty of very cozy adraj…. each of which i have a story to tell about… and it probably has a story to tell about me….
Certainly amman’s stairways…Adraj amman… I have a special bond with Jabal Alqal3a where my grandma lives, and another bond with Jabal Amman where i grow as a child and then as a teenager in CMS…. and Jabal alwebdeh where I discovered another layer in me related to art… in each of those places… there are plenty of very cozy adraj…. each of which i have a story to tell about… and it probably has a story to tell about me….
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I am loving these posts!
Jebel Lweibdeh, where my grandparents’ home is, and where I spent most of my childhood summers. We lived overseas,and would come back and spend a month or more every summer with all of my cousins wandering around Lweibdeh. Wish my kids could have that kind of magical freedom but the world is a more complicated place now. I was telling my daughters who are fans of the Arthur cartoon series (check it on http://www.pbs.org) that summers in Lweibdeh were sort of like Arthur’s life in “Elwood City”. We were free to be ourselves in the safe confines of our Jebel.In my mind, those summers are forever captured by the heady scent of red geraniums, jasmine blooming at night and overhwelming you as you past a garden wall, and delicious incomparable scent of pistachio skin,staining our finger nails as we climb up the trees at my grandparents whose to pick and eat the delicious nuts in their fleshy shell. We wandered from dukannet ABu Adnan where we bought Jabri ice cream cones or candy crayons in the little red box(across from Wahbeh’s butcher shop)to the kids club that used to be in the Muntazah (now replaced by Canvas). I think I still have my club id card somewhere :))There was a little shop nearby that sold malteeneh (the playdough that came in small colored rectangles, remember that??) and those big drawing pads with orange covers.
As preteens we could walk all the way to the Hawooz (hilariously renamed Square de Paris in my humble opinion). I still laugh about the crazy sidewalks, too high in some places, too narrow in others, with trees planted in the middle of the sidewalk, requiring you to risk your life by walking in the street. Falafel and fatteh were best from Abu Mahjoob. There used to a be a little grocery store next to Terra Sancta school that sold colored popcorn kernels (bushar); a real treat! As we got older, we (girls) would stop to buy nail polish or accessories from the little shops by Afghani. We experimented with hideous 80s make up (read colored eyeliner) and spent many shilins on scrunchies and big brightly colored earrings and bangles. Then came the teenage years, and the journey to buy pretty stationary (from university bookshop) for love letters or mix tapes from the place by the bookshop to nurse our crushes to the tunes of Majida Roumi among others. (For good American pop you had to travel across town to Music Box near NadiSayyarat). YER7AM!!!
As an adult, I love a walk through Jebel Amman down to El-Balad. All of Jebel Amman — Rainbow street, the older less “revitalized” areas, and the ruthless and beloved old staircases of the city.
thanks for the chance to travel down memory lane 🙂
I am loving these posts!
Jebel Lweibdeh, where my grandparents’ home is, and where I spent most of my childhood summers. We lived overseas,and would come back and spend a month or more every summer with all of my cousins wandering around Lweibdeh. Wish my kids could have that kind of magical freedom but the world is a more complicated place now. I was telling my daughters who are fans of the Arthur cartoon series (check it on http://www.pbs.org) that summers in Lweibdeh were sort of like Arthur’s life in “Elwood City”. We were free to be ourselves in the safe confines of our Jebel.In my mind, those summers are forever captured by the heady scent of red geraniums, jasmine blooming at night and overhwelming you as you past a garden wall, and delicious incomparable scent of pistachio skin,staining our finger nails as we climb up the trees at my grandparents whose to pick and eat the delicious nuts in their fleshy shell. We wandered from dukannet ABu Adnan where we bought Jabri ice cream cones or candy crayons in the little red box(across from Wahbeh’s butcher shop)to the kids club that used to be in the Muntazah (now replaced by Canvas). I think I still have my club id card somewhere :))There was a little shop nearby that sold malteeneh (the playdough that came in small colored rectangles, remember that??) and those big drawing pads with orange covers.
As preteens we could walk all the way to the Hawooz (hilariously renamed Square de Paris in my humble opinion). I still laugh about the crazy sidewalks, too high in some places, too narrow in others, with trees planted in the middle of the sidewalk, requiring you to risk your life by walking in the street. Falafel and fatteh were best from Abu Mahjoob. There used to a be a little grocery store next to Terra Sancta school that sold colored popcorn kernels (bushar); a real treat! As we got older, we (girls) would stop to buy nail polish or accessories from the little shops by Afghani. We experimented with hideous 80s make up (read colored eyeliner) and spent many shilins on scrunchies and big brightly colored earrings and bangles. Then came the teenage years, and the journey to buy pretty stationary (from university bookshop) for love letters or mix tapes from the place by the bookshop to nurse our crushes to the tunes of Majida Roumi among others. (For good American pop you had to travel across town to Music Box near NadiSayyarat). YER7AM!!!
As an adult, I love a walk through Jebel Amman down to El-Balad. All of Jebel Amman — Rainbow street, the older less “revitalized” areas, and the ruthless and beloved old staircases of the city.
thanks for the chance to travel down memory lane 🙂
One of my favorite places is the staircase leading to Wild Jordan.
my favourite space is where i can look from above and observe Amman moving from medday to its sunset…
Just the internets.
Just the internets.